Bali: Ubud – Part 2

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Ulun Danu Beratan

Ulun Danu Beratan is one of the famous temples in Bali. One reason in particular is that this site is on a lake (Lake Beratan), with the temple itself extending out into the water. The temple is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of lakes, rivers, and water, and was originally constructed around 1633. Its design is typical for Balinese and Hindu construction, which follows ancient Lontar texts (palm leaf manuscripts) that follow the symbolism and sacred geometry of temple construction.

There are numerous sites in Bali that are designated as UNESCO sites, this being one of them. The temple site consists of three courtyard areas: the outer (for secular activities and festivals), the middle (a transition zone between the human and divine realms), and the inner (the most sacred), where the main shrines are located. There is even a Buddhist stupa outside of the main complex. This symbolizes the coexistence of Hinduism and Buddhism at the time. The site is still active for worshippers, holding ceremonies and celebrating festivals.

I admit, the time of day made it quite difficult to photograph due to the angle of the sun and the immense contrast between light and shadow. I used both my phone and my camera, but I had to use the photos from my phone for this site.

View of Ulun Danu Beratan Temple entrance with statues and floral decorations, set against a backdrop of mountains and blue skies.
A statue of a traditional Balinese dancer adorned in colorful clothing, standing gracefully with arms outstretched, surrounded by lush greenery and flowering plants in the foreground, with a temple and mountains visible in the background.
A panoramic view of the Ulun Danu Beratan temple in Bali, showcasing traditional Balinese architecture, lush gardens, and visitors exploring the sacred site under a clear blue sky.
A view of Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, situated on Lake Beratan in Bali, featuring traditional Balinese architecture including multiple tiered pagodas surrounded by lush greenery and mountains in the background.
The Ulun Danu Beratan temple in Bali, surrounded by water and lush greenery, with a cloudy sky in the background.
Ulun Danu Beratan temple situated on Lake Beratan, surrounded by lush greenery and vibrant flowers in the foreground.
View of the Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, featuring intricate stone carvings and statues, located on the shores of Lake Beratan in Bali, against a backdrop of mountains and a blue sky.

Despite its history and use for sacred practices, I’m guessing these other parts of the site were not around before the tourists started showing up.

Scenic view of Ulun Danu Beratan temple with vibrant flowers and lush green mountains in the background, reflecting the serene atmosphere of Lake Beratan.
View of stone pyramids and decorative swan sculptures by a lake and mountains in the background.
A scenic view of the Ulun Danu Beratan temple located on Lake Beratan, surrounded by lush greenery and mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

Leke Leke Waterfall

Another waterfall on the itinerary was Leke Leke. My carefully planned itinerary got changed multiple times, mostly due to the drivers’ input. First it was on the list, then it was off, then it was back on.

A waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff surrounded by lush greenery, with water flowing into a serene pool at the base.
A stunning waterfall cascading down rocky cliffs, surrounded by lush green vegetation and ferns, creating a serene natural landscape.

While hiking along the trail leading to the waterfall, I stumbled upon a most strange sight. I feel like I really need the backstory to the how and why of this.

An abandoned toilet surrounded by lush green plants and foliage.

Taman Ayun

Another temple I visited was Taman Ayun. Built in 1634 by the King of Mengwi, I Gusti Agung Putu, it was a temple for the royal family as well as a place of worship for the local community. Like the previous temple, it too has three courtyards for different purposes. It was the final place I visited that day, but not my final activity (that would be my cooking class later).

A serene view of a Balinese temple complex featuring a stone bridge leading across a pond, with intricately carved statues and lush greenery in the background.
A Balinese temple complex surrounded by lush greenery, featuring traditional architecture with a thatched roof and intricate stone carvings.
A view of a traditional Balinese temple surrounded by lush greenery and colorful flowers, with a multi-tiered roof structure under a partly cloudy sky.
Entrance of a Balinese temple featuring ornate stone carvings and statues, with moss-covered walls.
A Balinese temple complex featuring a multi-tiered pagoda, traditional thatched-roof structures, and elaborate stone carvings set against a clear blue sky.
A view of the traditional Balinese temple structures with tiered roofs set against a blue sky, surrounded by lush greenery and a decorative stone wall.
A serene view of a lush park with a large tree adorned with green ferns, surrounded by vibrant plants and a traditional gazebo in the background.
A cluster of bamboo trees surrounded by lush greenery, with a visible path in the foreground.
Traditional Balinese temple with multi-tiered thatched roofs and intricate stone carvings, surrounded by lush greenery.
A statue of Dewi Danu, the Balinese goddess of lakes and rivers, adorned with intricate gold details, standing amidst lush greenery.
A Balinese temple structure featuring traditional multi-tiered roofs and intricate stone carvings, surrounded by greenery.
A traditional Balinese temple structure with intricate carvings and a thatched roof, surrounded by lush greenery and other temple elements on a clear day.
Traditional Balinese masks displayed in a cultural setting, featuring intricate designs and decorations, used in local performances.
View of the river bordered by chairs and tables, with lush greenery and traditional buildings visible in the background under a blue sky.

The tour route ends with a short documentary film inside of a small theater that also has paintings. Some were beautiful, some were interesting, and one in particular was…well, you’ll see.

A vibrant painting depicting a scene from Balinese culture, featuring dynamic figures surrounded by flames and swirling patterns, showcasing traditional costumes and expressive poses.
A mural featuring numerous illustrations of human figures in various poses, showcasing both male and female forms in a playful and abstract style.
Yes, this painting really stands out the moment you see it.
A framed painting of a Balinese dancer in traditional attire, surrounded by red roses in the background, showcasing vibrant colors and intricate details.
A monochromatic artwork depicting the silhouette of Taman Ayun temple in Bali, showcasing its architectural features with intricate details.
A vibrant triptych artwork depicting muscular male figures in dynamic poses, showcasing strength and movement, with a backdrop of red and orange circles.
An indoor setting featuring a traditional Balinese structure with a thatched roof, surrounded by ornate decorations. In the center, there are life-sized statues depicting men involved in a cockfighting scene, with a fenced area and seating around the perimeter.

Yes, I still had something else to do. I realized that I packed my schedule a bit too tight, but that wisdom will just have to carry over to the next trip.

Cooking Class

As I always tell people, whenever I’m visiting a country, especially for the first time, I like to take a cooking class. This one took place at a home that also had their family temple structure. By now, I’m assuming they have been able to expand their home to accommodate more cooking facilities. I really wanted to film more of the demonstrations and food as we went through the process, but I was afraid that touching my phone throughout the class might instigate looks of disapproval. None of the other five people were taking photos while we were prepping.

I enjoyed the presentation of the ingredients. I also thought it was an interesting idea to make sure that everyone had a chance to get involved by pairing and sharing the prepping duties. The owner of this business came out to speak to us towards the end of the class. I could tell she was an outgoing person and had mastered the stories she told us, including how her husband originally wanted to marry her, but she didn’t want to; then later on, when she became pregnant, she agreed to. She also jokingly (well, half-jokingly) said to only post a review of the class if it was five stars.

A detailed view of a Balinese temple complex featuring traditional architecture with ornate carvings and stone sculptures, surrounded by lush greenery and under a clear blue sky.
Exterior view of ornate Balinese temple structures against a blue sky with clouds.
Two ornate temple towers with intricate carvings and gold accents against a blue sky.
A detailed view of a traditional Balinese temple structure, featuring intricate carvings and a thatched roof under a blue sky.
A decorative Balinese temple structure with intricate carvings and a statue at the top, set against a blue sky with fluffy clouds.
Entrance to Paon Bali Cooking Class, featuring traditional Balinese cooking tools and offerings.
A instructor stands in front of a table displaying traditional Balinese dishes during a cooking class, with rice and colorful ingredients arranged on a green tablecloth.
The owner
A stone mortar and pestle with red beans, garlic, and chili peppers beside a bowl of bean sprouts on a bamboo mat.
A variety of fresh ingredients including ginger, turmeric, and limes arranged on green leaves, set against a bamboo mat.
Plates of wrapped food items made with banana leaves, arranged on a bamboo mat.
Platters of fresh ingredients for a cooking class in Bali, featuring garlic, shallots, ginger, lemongrass, and chili peppers arranged on banana leaves.
A selection of spices in small bowls on a decorative green plate, placed on a bamboo mat. The bowls contain black peppercorns, white pepper, mustard seeds, and dried cloves.
A vibrant arrangement of fresh vegetables and herbs, including tomatoes, chilies, potatoes, and greens, presented on a bed of banana leaves.
A plate of Indonesian cuisine featuring rice topped with a yellow curry, various vegetables, chicken skewers, and a mix of side dishes including shredded cabbage and fried tempeh.

Ramayana Ballet

I was actually meant to go on a sunset Jeep tour of Mount Batur, but after not having any contact with whoever the driver was supposed to be, I had to contact GetYourGuide, a company that sells different tours conducted by local tour companies. After two employees made attempts at contacting the local tour group hosting this activity (one of whom stated they got hung up on when they finally got through), they said that I would get a refund. So, no Mount Batur. What was I to do that evening?

It then occurred to me that I should try to see if there were any cultural dance shows available. Lucky for me, there were. There are a few different kinds of Balinese dance shows available, so I chose the Ramayana Ballet performed at the ARMA Museum. The Ramayana Ballet is “a show that blends the dance and drama without dialogue.” The story of this show was divided into eight scenes. The story being that of “the journey of Lord Rama, a prince from Ayodhya, and his quest to rescue his wife Sita from the demon king Rawana.” They also state that the Ramayana is a sacred text in Hinduism. The performers often moved slowly with curved hands and feet. It reminded me of a dance I saw while in Pattaya, Thailand.

Recording video and flash photography are not allowed (although I bet a few people still recorded some video). So, my only option was trying to get some photos with my phone in rather dim light. At the start of the show, I was concerned about the amount of noise coming from one of the bars across the road with someone singing, as well as construction going on right next to us with hammers and saws operating. Luckily, the music and voice performer (who provided sound effects and perhaps story guidance) were loud enough so that these were not too distracting.

Entrance of the ARMA Museum in Ubud, Bali, featuring traditional Balinese architecture surrounded by trees and illuminated at dusk.
A scene from the Ramayana Ballet performance in Ubud, Bali, showcasing dancers in traditional attire on stage with a backdrop of ancient temple architecture.
Two performers in traditional Balinese costumes are dancing on stage during the Ramayana Ballet at the ARMA Museum. The background features stone structures and lush greenery.
Two performers in traditional Balinese costumes dancing during a Ramayana Ballet performance, with a historical temple backdrop.
Two performers in traditional Balinese costumes are performing the Ramayana Ballet on stage, with a lush green backdrop and decorative stone structures.
A performer in traditional Balinese costume enacting a scene from the Ramayana Ballet, with vibrant colors and ornate accessories, set against a backdrop of stone architecture in a dimly lit environment.
Two performers in traditional Balinese costumes engage in a dramatic dance, with colorful accents and intricate details, against an ornate temple backdrop.
Two performers dressed in traditional Balinese costume are acting on stage during a cultural dance performance. One performer holds a colorful mask while the other gestures dramatically, set against a backdrop of ancient temple ruins illuminated by soft lighting.
The Ramayana Ballet performance featuring dancers in traditional Balinese costumes on stage, with a temple backdrop and lush greenery.
Four female dancers performing the Ramayana Ballet in traditional Balinese costumes with intricate headdresses, set against a temple backdrop.
A group of female dancers performing a traditional Balinese dance, dressed in vibrant costumes with intricate detailing, set against a cultural backdrop.
Performance of the Ramayana Ballet featuring three dancers in traditional Balinese costumes, set against a historical temple backdrop, showcasing intricate movements and expressions.
A scene from the Ramayana Ballet performance, showcasing three dancers in traditional Balinese costumes on stage, with a backdrop of ancient temple ruins.
A group of performers in traditional Balinese costumes stand on stage at night, preparing for the Ramayana Ballet at the ARMA Museum.

Notes From a Driver

Early on, one of the drivers informed me of some things about Indonesia, specifically about Bali, that I found interesting.

  • Bali is mostly Hindu, unlike the rest of Indonesia, which is Muslim. On the way back from the cooking class, traffic was backed up even more than usual due to there being a suckling pig festival going on. Since the rest of Indonesia is Muslim, this is something only found in Bali.
  • In Bali, Hindus pray three times a day. In India, they pray two times a day.
  • In Bali, they do not pray to gods but to the house. In India, they pray to gods.
  • Bali homes each have their own temple rather than using a public temple. Public temples exist but are only used for big holidays and festivals.
  • Balinese New Year is celebrated in March, called “Silent Day.” On this day, there is no work, internet, electricity in the evening, or leaving home allowed. Even the airport shuts down.
  • Cremation is considered the official process in death rather than burial. Burial is allowed and is cheaper than cremation. However, it is considered temporary. By that, the body can only be buried for up to five years. After that, it must be dug up and the body cremated. Apparently, this is also the case in India.
  • My favorite quote from a driver was “In Bali, we don’t have casinos. We have chickens.” He was referring to cockfighting as a popular form of gambling and wanted to know if I was interested in seeing one. I declined the offer.

Food

A colorful bowl of chicken curry served with red rice, garnished with cilantro and fried shallots, on a marble table.
A plate of spring rolls filled with vegetables and meat, accompanied by a small bowl of red dipping sauce.
A plate of traditional Indonesian food featuring a serving of meat in a rich sauce accompanied by mixed vegetables and a portion of white rice, all presented on a banana leaf.
A bowl of rich beef curry garnished with fresh green herbs, placed on a white tablecloth.
A plate of fried noodles topped with a sunny-side-up egg, accompanied by crispy crackers and a small bowl of pickled vegetables.

My time in Ubud felt quite full with day trips and activities. The heat and humidity also felt draining. As I mentioned earlier, the feeling of being tired was from the long times stuck in traffic. Though I felt satisfied, the journey was not over yet. The next leg of the journey was the trip up to Lovina. More on that in the next post.

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